DVD ripping

[meglamaniac]

Now, I know this is going to sound dodgy but I swear this is true, damnit!
A group of us made a short film over the summer, mastered it all professional like in Adobe Premier, did all the relevant conversions and burnt it to DVD.
Quite annoyingly, the guy with the master file has had a harddrive crash leaving us with only the DVDs.

I know "google is my friend" and all that, but the one thing I do know about DVD ripping is it takes bloody ages, so I'd rather not mess about for 15 hours and be left with 700Mb or so of crap.
So, if anyone knows any good guides on how to go about doing a DVD to DivX/XVid rip I'd appreciate it, more so if you can vouch for it working.

The DVD is just the same as one you'd buy from the shop, except we burnt it as a multiregion disc (region code 0) so there should be no protection.

[JetLinus]

Ok, well, the best site I know where you can get excellent information is: http://nickyguides.digital-digest.com/

There are lots of tools involved. Basically it all goes like:

1. Rip DVD to HDD with a Ripper, i.e. SmartRipper
2. Now there is a program called DVD2AVI, basically you just open the .vob-files (or whatever the extension of real DVD data is), and tick off the audio stuff. Then "Save Project" (not AVI), giving you an .d2v file.
3. Use a tool called VFAPI Reader, which will convert the .d2v file into a fake .avi, which contains a sort of reference to the original DVD-files (at least as I understood it).
4. Now, finally, you can use VirtualDub (really GREAT program), to load the .AVI. Do the filters you want, i.e. resize, and then choose your codec. Preferrably Xvid. Use 2pass (for VBR), do all the settings or not, and encode your vid. (1st pass saves a .stats file, and only creates a dummy .avi, 2nd pass creates the final .avi using the .stats file).

This is all without the audio so far. If I remember correctly, you need a tool called GraphEdit to extract it. It only works with right DirectShow filters installed, get them here: http://www.divx-digest.tv/nicky/all-filters.zip . They are .ax files, and you need to copy them to windows\system32 and register them with regsvr32.

Using Graphedit CAN be a bit tricky, example pictures of how it should look can be found here on that page, for example: http://nickyguides.digital-digest.co...s/graphout.gif

This GraphEdit should produce a .wav file, and you can finally use VirtualDub again to compress it to MP3 or whatever, and stream it into the AVI.

Done

[JetLinus]

Oh, and another great tool is AVISynth. It's a sort of scripting language and frameserver. This means, you put commands into a text-file (extension .avs), and you can open it with any media program, from Media Player to VirtualDub. It plays just like an ordinary .avi (just slower), but you have full control about what the contents are.

There are build-in filters and stuff, and there might even be a Plugin to directly load DVD-files, and pass them to VirtualDub. If I'm right, that plugin is called "dec2mpeg", or "mpeg2dec", dunno. Must be on that Nicky's Digital Solutions page.
It might not give you high-speed, but at least high quality. And this method would save you the need to use all that VFAPI and DVD2AVI stuff...

[JetLinus]

Alright, just found it, here again: http://nickyguides.digital-digest.com/synth-vdub.htm
Apparently it might even work without that plugin, if you got the right filters installed.

Oh, and please DON'T get blinded by that all-in-one tool FlaskMPEG, it's shit. Doesn't work nicely, and the quality is bad. At least in my experience.

So far... Quite some work, innit? ^^

[djbass]

DVDx has always worked well in my opinion.

=[DJ Bass]=

[Intervention]

I know nothing about it personally, but www.doom9.org is said to be a good source of everything you need.

[Ragnarak]

normally i'd say use EasyDivX where you just press a few buttons and away it goes but considering how computer literate you are, check out doom9 or vcdhelp or somewhere and follow one of the proper guides.

[MT]

Welcome to SA's KB

Wee Mad Arthur came out of the closet to say:
In this thread, I'll try to give you a step-by-step walkthrough for creating 1CD XviD/Ogg video. As you can see, it's a fairly large guide, as I have tried to the best of my ability to explain the various features and settings of the programs used.


We'll need some software. Here's a list of links to the download pages for the latest versions, or direct links to files where the download's name does not change with updates:

DVDDecrypter: Latest version available on this page. Used to extract VOB files from DVD. Install in its own folder, ie. C:\DVDRipping\DVDDec.

AviSynth: List of AviSynth downloads from SourceForge. Get the latest binary release, which at the time of this writing is AviSynth_252.exe. Install it to C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5.

Koepi's XviD Binaries: You need these to encode XviD video. Get the "Latest Development (unstable) Binary" from that page and install it.

MPEG2Dec3.dll: Scroll to the bottom of the page, download MPEG2Dec3 v1.00, place the DLL anywhere, I recommend C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\.

MPEG2Dec: We don't need this file for anything other than to have Gknot generate scripts. Extract MPEG2Dec.dll to your Gordian Knot folder.

Decomb.dll: While not usually required for DVD, this is for progressive video that has interlacing artifacts as a result of field swapping. Download the zip and extract Decomb.dll to any directory, I recommend C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\plugins.

UnFilter.dll: This is your basic sharpen/soften filter, I find that sharpening video a tiny bit before encoding it usually counters the excessive softening of the H.263 quantizer. Open the zip to find two UnFilter.dll files inside. You want the one with a path called "UnFilter_AviSynth_2.5_Alpha", extract it anywhere, again I recommend C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\plugins.

TomsMoComp.dll: A deinterlacer. Again you will find two TomsMoComp.dll files in the zip, extract the one with the "AviSynth_2.5" path to any directory, such as C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\plugins.

UnDot.dll: A noise killer. Extract to any folder, like C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\plugins.

BeSweet, OggMachine: From this page, download BeSweet 1.4 and place it in its own folder, ie. C:\DVDRipping\BeSweet. Then get the OggMachine, and extract it to the BeSweet folder. OggMachine is a frontend for BeSweet that will allow you to convert the AC3 audio dvd2avi gave you to OGG VORBIS audio, which rules the world.

OggMux: Get the latest release here. Extract the contents to any folder, my OggMux is in my BeSweet folder. This program is what builds the OGM containers we've all grown to love. With it, you can combine audio, subtitles, chapters and video in one little, neat package.

Gordian Knot: On that page, get the latest EXE-ONLY distribution from the right-side menu. Currently "Gknot 0.27 exe". Gknot was created as an all-in-one sort of thing, but I just use it to generate my basic AVS script and determine bitrates and filesizes. Extract it to its own folder, ie. C:\DVDRipping\Gknot.

DVD2AVI: This is a frameserver that creates a D2V project file which is called upon by your AVS script as the video source. Used immediately after DVD ripping to determine video type and generate AC3 audio. I'm told the newer versions are screwed, so stick with 1.76 for now. Extract to its own folder, ie. C:\DVDRipping\dvd2avi.

VirtualDubMod: Ridiculously confusing page, with multiple downloads containing the same files, all marked as NEEDED. I downloaded all the CRITICAL packages, but I am pretty sure all you need is the latest "VirtualDubMod_X_all_inclusive.zip". Install to its own directory, ie. C:\DVDRipping\VDubMod. If you want to play it safe, get the two NEEDED DLLs packages up top as well. Just don't extract files that are older than files you already have.

Urgh! That's a lot of software. With that out of the way, we can get started with the good stuff.


Ripping:
R1: Load DVDDecrypter and rip your DVD. I've never messed with default settings, it is set up perfectly from the beginning. I like to create the directory on my Desktop since I'll be accessing it so much throughout the process. It will create 1Gb VOB files and a few other info files (needed for Subtitles, etc.)

R2: Once it's done, load DVD2AVI and click "Open". Select the first VOB file from before, and it will automagically import all the subsequent VOBs. Click "OK" on the confirmation screen that pops up.

R3: Adjust basic settings (you only need to do this once, ever) by settings IDCT to "64-bit", Field Operation to "NONE" and Color Space to "YUV" from the relevant subcategories in the Video menu up top. From the Audio menu, set Channel Format to "Dolby Digital", and select "Demux" in the Dolby Digital subcategory.

The following section describes possible problems with the source video, and is split into two versions, one for NTSC, another for PAL. Do not be alarmed by the amount of text, in most cases you will be dealing with "the good kind of video", and can complete this step in seconds!

R4 NTSC: Hit F5 to preview the video. It is a good idea to use the "[" button to set a starting point somewhere in the middle of the movie, as sometimes the initial distributor logos are in another video format than the actual movie, and can produce misleading results. Once it's playing, look at the info screen to the right of the movie window. Ideally, it will say "PROGRESSIVE" in the Frame Type box, and "FILM XX%" in the Video Type box. Let the preview run for a little while. If the FILM percentage ends up below 95%, there is too much NTSC garbage to use DVD2AVI's "Forced Film" operation (so DO NOT enable Forced Film if this is the case), and you will need to "Inverse Telecine" the movie, or outright Deinterlace it. This is without a doubt the most complex topic related to video (in my world, at least), so I'll refer you to Doom9's Guide on the topic. It is very extensive, and should be able to provide a solution to all problems related to IVTC and Deinterlacing. I am in Europe, so I don't have the same problems as NTSC people, hence my inability to provide detailed information on this subject.

Assuming, however, that you have "FILM 95+%" and "PROGRESSIVE" (which is what you will have most of the time when ripping DVDs) in your little info screen, select "Forced Film" from the "Field Operation" subcategory in the Video menu, make a note of the aspect ratio in the info screen (either 4:3 or 16:9 Anamorphic) and choose "Save Project".


R4 PAL: Hit F5 to preview the video. Ideally it will say PROGRESSIVE video in the info box on the left side of the movie preview window. It will, however, most likely tell you that you're dealing with a PAL source and INTERLACED video. This is in almost all cases not true. PAL movie DVDs will be PROGRESSIVE in most cases, even if DVD2AVI tells you otherwise. Confusing, yes, but don't fret. Test for interlaced content by scrolling to an action scene and advancing frame by frame. Are there interlacing artifacts?

http://syndrome9.net/artifact.jpg

The above effect is exaggerated, but you will notice the artifacts if they are there, especially if you are flipping through the frames of a scene with a lot of movement (RECOMMENDED). If they are present, select "Swap Field Order" in the "Field Operation" subcategory in the Video menu. Very VERY rarely, you will have a movie where the field order is not consistent throughout the movie, and in this case you need to disable Swap Fields and add Telecide(post=true) to your final AVS script. Until you are ready to encode the movie, however, add Telecide(post=false) to the AVS file (generated later on, keep this bit in mind until then). If Swap Field Order removes the artifacts, or if there are no artifacts, check for duplicate frames, which are present in some cases (one of several methods used to convert video from 24FPS to 25FPS). Scroll through 25 frames, and if any two adjecent frames are exactly alike (be sure to flip through a scene where there is a lot of movement), you need to kill the 25th frame. This is done by adding Decimate(cycle=25) to your final AVS script (generated later on, keep this bit in mind until then). If "Swap Field Order" did not fix the artifacts, you're dealing with truly interlaced content and need to deinterlace it later. I use TomsMoComp(X,5,1) in the final AVS script (generated later on, keep this bit in mind until then), where X is either 1 or 0, depending on your field order. Preview the finished AVS script in VDubMod to determine which setting to use.

Make a note of the aspect ratio in the info screen (either 4:3 or 16:9 Anamorphic). If your info screen in dvd2avi shows PROGRESSIVE, or if the video does not have any visible interlacing artifacts even if it is listed as INTERLACED video, you can now click "Save Project" to create your D2V file. In the other cases, determine your response by reading the section above, change settings accordingly, and "Save Project".


Audio:
A1: Alright, we should now have a bunch of VOB files, an AC3 audio file and a D2V project file. We're gonna leave the video alone for a while and focus on converting the audio from AC3 to the super delicious Ogg Vorbis format. Load the OggMachine, make sure the "BeSweet.exe" path points to the correct location, and set the "INPUT" to the AC3 file generated by dvd2avi. The "OUTPUT" field will be generated automatically.

A2: Make sure the following settings are correct: LFE To LW Channels = -3dB, Channels Mode = surround2, Dynamic Compression = Normal and Normalize to 100% of MaxGain.

A3: In the Ogg Vorbis section, set quality to 0.100/~80kbps. This is equivalent to an MP3 with twice that bitrate, so you'll effectively get an 160kbps MP3. I have never experienced anything but the richest, crispest of audio when using this setting, but if you believe you will need higher bitrate, adjust the value accordingly. Keep in mind, however, that the larger your audio file is, the less room your video will have, and the poorer its quality will be!

A4: Look at the filename of the AC3 file. It has a DELAY value in there somewhere, which is hopefully 0 (zero). If there is a delay, however, this is where you fix it. In the "Set Delay to" field in the center column, enter the delay from the filename. REMEMBER there is a difference between 80ms and -80ms! Don't forget that negative values are possible.

A5: Click the "Give me OGG!" button, and go make some coffee. This will take a while, up to a half hour or so with long movies. Once it's done, read on!


Crop & Resize:
C1: It's time to generate an AVS script. For this purpose, we use GordianKnot. Load the program, click "Open" in the lower left corner and select your D2V file. Do not close the preview window that pops up.

C2: Click the "Resolution" tab. Gknot will have analysed the file and changed values of resolution, aspect ratio and framerate accordingly. What we want now is to choose a resolution for our final video, and to crop away the black bars above and below the video. In the "Crop (before resize!)" section, set it to "Pixel" and click the Auto Crop button. This is generally very accurate. Now set crop mode to Smart Crop All, and the values will be adjusted to maintain the correct aspect ratio in the final video.

C3: In the "Output Resolution" section, make sure both "W-Modul" and "H-Modul" are set to 16. Now click the up/down arrows and select the resolution you want. Near the bottom of the screen is a section called "Bits/(Pixel*Frame)". This value should be above 0.170! I like it to be around 0.180. Once you're satisfied, look at the numbers in the Crop section. They will have changed in an attempt to maintain the aspect ratio of the film, but you can accept a deviance of up to a few percent without noticing. So, memorize the numbers in Smart Crop All mode, and switch back to Pixel mode. Insert the values Smart Crop gave you and adjust them until: A) The values are EVEN NUMBERS, and B) The black bars/any edge problems are completely gone. Double-check that your "Aspect Error" is still acceptable.

C4: Switch to the "Bitrate" tab. In the section called "Audio A", click the "Select" button, switch "File Type" to "All Files", which will enable you to select your OGG file from before, and open it.

C5: Set the "Codec" in the upper right corner to DivX 5. This is solely to calculate bitrate, rest assured we'll be encoding using XviD.

C6: In the "Total Size" section, select the filesize you're aiming for from the dropdown (I always go for 700Mb) and click the "1 CD" button. What happens now is that Gknot will subtract the size of the audio file from the final filesize and calculate both the size of the video and the bitrate. Check the "Video Size" field and write down the value in kilobytes for future reference.

C7: Depending on what you changed in the last three steps, the bits/(pixel*frame) value may have changed. Go back and mess with resolution until settings are acceptable.

C8: Switch to the video preview window, and click the "Save & Encode" button at the bottom. It will pop up a "Save .avs" screen. Select "Neutral Bicubic" from the "Resize Filter" section. Do not click "Save & Encode" in here, we just want the AVS file, so click "Save" and choose a filename for your AVS file.


Tweaking the AVS file:
T1: Load your favorite text editor and paste the following into a new file:

LoadPlugin("C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\mpeg2dec3.dll")
LoadPlugin("C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\plugins\UnFilter.dll")
LoadPlugin("C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\plugins\UnDot.dll")
mpeg2source("")
crop()
LumaFilter(-2)
Unfilter (5,5)
UnDot()
BicubicResize()

As you can see, three of the parameters are empty (UnDot() is not empty, but just does not take any variables). From the AVS file Gknot created (also just a text file) find the lines called mpeg2source("X"), crop(X) and BicubicResize(X) and copy the values into the corresponding lines above.


T2: I have added a few filters to this, my all-round AVS template script. Filters is an enormous topic, and there are hundreds of them out there for a lot of more or less specific purposes. I use three here, Lumafilter, which should help reduce blockiness in very dark areas, UnDot, which catches stray pixels and helps prevent the so-called "mosquito noise", and Unfilter which can either sharpen or blur the image. The settings for this filter depend heavily on your source video, if it is overly sharp, you should use negative values to soften the image. If it is blurry, you should use positive values to sharpen it. I have found that GENERALLY, modern movies benefit from a very slight sharpening, Unfilter(5,5), to help counter the effect of using the H.263 Quantizer, which has a tendency to blur the image a bit. Undot is safe to use in any encode, and should be in any script. You can leave both Lumafilter and Unfilter out (add a # before each line, or simply delete the lines) if you want. Leaving out Lumafilter will increase compressability a little, and might even result in a better looking movie.

T3: Make sure you copied the values from your Gknot-generated AVS script correctly (source/crop/resize). Change the paths of the LoadPlugin lines to match your own file system. Make sure you load the MPEG2Dec3 plugin and NOT MPEG2Dec. It is a lot faster. Then save the AVS file, either on top of the one Gknot made, or as a new file, it makes no difference.

T4: Remember when we were using dvd2avi, the potential problems I mentioned? Well, here's where you fix them, by loading IVTC or Deinterlace filters in the AVS. Remember to load the plugins you use before applying them in the file! To use TomsMoComp, for example, add:

LoadPlugin("C:\DVDRipping\AviSynth 2.5\plugins\TomsMoComp.dll")
TomsMoComp(1,5,1)

...to your AVS. Decimate() and Telecide() are both functions of the Decomb.dll plugin, so load that one if you need those functions. Just make sure the path to the DLL files are correct, and that you use the proper syntax for them, and you should be fine!

T5: For an extensive list of AviSynth filters, check out this page.


Encoding the video:
E1: Pheew! Now it's time to encode the video. In VirtualDubMod, load the AVS file we just made. In the Video menu up top, select "Fast Recompress", then hit Ctrl+C to access the Compression menu. At the bottom of the list, you will find "XviD MPEG-4 Codec". Select it and click "Configure". The first time you do this, be sure to hit the "Load Defaults" button in the next window!

E2: From the "Encoding Mode" dropdown, select "2 Pass - 1st Pass" and click "Advanced Options". First, look at the "Global" tab. Let me explain a few of the relevant features here that are not self-explanatory: Quantization type defines how detail is removed during compression. You'll notice quite a few options here, but stick with H.263 for now. It is best suited for 1CD encodes, whereas the MPEG Quant is better for multi-CD videos. VHQ does NOT stand for Very High Quality, but is instead an extra effort to increase compressability. Ideally it is set to "4 - Wide Search", but that will increase encoding time to something like 8-10 hours per pass, and should be avoided. I leave it at "1 - Mode Decision", and I suggest you do the same. The benefits of using VHQ4 are not worth the effort, in my opinion. Maximum I-Frame Interval defines how many B- and P-Frames are allowed before the encoder forces an I-Frame (also known as a KEYFRAME). As a general rule, you'll want an I-Frame at least every 10 seconds, so for PAL, set it to 250, 240 for NTSC. Minimum I-Frame Interval is pretty self-explanatory, but it doesn't matter what you set it to, as we'll be using B-Frames, which will result in this setting being ignored.

A note on frame types. I-Frames, or keyframes, are "full frames" that are independant of all other frames. P-Frames are frames that can reference the previous frame and save space that way. A B-Frame references both the frame before and after itself and thus is able to save a lot of bits. Imagine a picture of a white canvas. This is our I-Frame. In the next frame, a B-Frame, a black circle is present in the center of the canves, and the third frame, a P-Frame, is the same as the B-Frame. The I-Frame stores all information about the white canvas. The B-Frame contains info about both the I- and P- frame, and essentially just says "the white background is the same as in the I-Frame before me, the black circle is the same as in the P-Frame after me". What B- and P- frames store are not entire frames, but references to other frames as well as new content. Only difference is the B-Frame's ability to reference future frames.

Below the I-Frame options are 6 checkboxes, with more or less experimental features. Lumi masking locates very bright or very dark areas where the human eye is unable to discern detail and compresses it more than the rest of the movie, leaving more bits for detailed areas. It is unstable and I never use it, but try it out, maybe you'll get good results. Interlacing is XviD's support for truly interlaced content, and should not be used, not even if your initial source video was interlaced. Provided that you fixed it with a deinterlacer, it is now progressive video, and should be treated as such. Quarterpel is supposed to give you a sharper output picture, but is really not very well suited for 1CD encodes. It will add mosquito noise, and I do not recommend using it. Greyscale outputs, you guessed it, greyscale video. Chroma motion is an extension of the Motion Search that evaluates color values to detect motion and is highly recommended. Global Motion Compensation tries to save bits in scenes with a lot of motion, such as panning. It is incompatible with VHQ and should be left disabled.

B-Frames are the superframes of tomorrow! The next section contains settings for their use. Max. B-Frames sets the number of consecutive B-Frames you'll allow. B-Frame Quant Ratio sets the extra amount of compression applied to B-Frames, as a percentage of the average I/P-Frame Quant. Quantizers range from 1 to, I suppose, infinity. 1 means no compression at all, the higher the number, the more compression. B-Frame Quant Offset is how much the larger the quantizer used for any given B-Frame is, compared to the previous P-Frame. The number listed is multiplied by 100, so with a setting of 50, for example, the B-Frame quant is .50 larger than the previous P-Frame quant. B-Frame Threshold is an additional setting controlling the amount of B-Frames. Setting it to 255 will result in the Max. B-Frames setting always being used. DX50 B-VOP Compatibility ensures that the B-Frames are DivX5 compatible, which is preferred.

The following settings are recommended:

Motion Search: 6
Quant: H.263
FourCC: XviD
VHQ: 1
Max I: 250
Min I: 2
Chroma Motion
B-Frames: 2/150/75/0
DX50 B-VOP Compatibility

Leave all options not listed above unchecked.

E3: Select the "Debug" tab up top, and click "Chroma Optimizer", which should give you better edges. I have had good experiences using the "Trellis R-D Quant" listed next to the Chroma Optimizer, but some people have reported oddly colored blocks in their movies because of it, so use it at your own risk.

E4: Go to the "Two pass" tab and make sure "Discard first pass" is selected. (Note: I talked recently with someone who did not discard the first pass, but used it to determine if his encode settings were perfect or not. This is a good idea, if you have the patience to wait 3 hours every time you want to test new settings. A basic rule of thumb if you choose to do this is that your first pass AVI should be around 1Gb for a 1CD encode. If it is larger, compress more aggressively, if it is smaller, compress less.)

E5: Click "OK" three times to return to the main VDubMod window. Choose "File -> Save As", and choose a name for your first pass AVI. This file will be discarded anyway, so just call it asdfasdf.avi. Make sure the "Don't run this job now..." checkbox is selected. Click "Save", and the job is added to the queue for later.

E6: Hit Ctrl+C again, and open the XviD MPEG-4 Codec settings again. Select "2 Pass - 2nd Pass Int." from the "Encoding Mode" dropdown and paste the filesize you got from Gknot back in section C4 into the field marked "Desired Size (kbytes)". This is NOT the bitrate, but instead the desired size of the final video, excluding audio. The number will usually be between 640000 and 660000 for a normal movie.

E7: Hit "Advanced Options" again. Don't touch the first page, but instead switch to the "Quantization" tab. Change the values to 2/18/2/24.

E8: Switch to the "Two Pass" tab, make sure I-Frame Boost is set to 10% (giving extra bitrate to I-Frames), that "Below I-Frame Distance" is set to 10 (making XviD treat I-Frames within 10 frames of each other as consecutive) and that "I-Frame Bitrate Reduction" is set to 20% (stealing bitrate from I-Frames less than 10 frames from the next I-Frame). The "Curve Compression" settings should be left at 0/0/(250 for PAL, 240 for NTSC)/Payback Proportionally.

E9: If you wish to (I never do), you can enable extra compression for ending/starting credits under the "Credits" tab. It is very straightforward, just input the start and end of the credits, measured in frames, and set the amount of extra compression you want. You can even choose to encode them in greyscale. I recommend not messing with this, as advantages are minimal.

E10: Leave everything else alone, click "OK" three times, and once again choose "File -> Save As". This will be your finished video file. Make sure "Don't run this job now..." is still selected and click "Save".

E11: Woop! Now you're ready to encode the video. From the "File" menu, click on "Job Control". You should see the two passes lined up and ready to go. Click the "Start" button to begin the encoding process. This will take a long while, on my 1100Mhz/512Mb Thunderbird system it takes about 3 hours per pass. I usually just leave it overnight while I sleep.


The OGM Container:
O1: Alright! Almost done now...We have our OGG audio, we have our AVI video, now we need to combine the two. Run OggMux and click the "..." button next to the "Movie" field up top, then select the 2nd Pass AVI we made before.

O2: In the "Soundtracks" field, place the OGG file we made with the OggMachine earlier. Make sure the dropdown box is set correctly and click "Add". You can add as many soundtracks as you want here, but usually we just have one. We fixed the delay back in OggMachine, so leave that at 0ms here.

O3: If you have Chapters or Subtitles, add them in the same manner as the audio.

O4: Choose an Output Filename, and hit the "Mux File!" button. This won't take very long, and once it's done, you're left with a completely nifty little OGM container with everything included.

To play OGM files, you need the latest DefilerPak, which includes all the required filters and decoders. Any player should be able to read them after that's installed.


That's it! I hope this guide was useful, and I hope I provided enough information to get you started with your own settings. The above is what generally works for me, but there are lots of interesting problems to run into that will require delicious tweaking!

This guide would not have been possible without information gathered from the Doom9 forums. Check it out, there's tons of information there. Also, a big thanks to everyone who participated in Stev0's original DVD ripping thread.

I've spent all day writing this in one sitting, so I'm sure a few typos and errors have snuck their way in there. I would appreciate any and all feedback, praise, hate and corrections!

[MT]

harrybozack came out of the closet to say:
Programs Needed:

DVD Decrypter - Used for ripping the DVD to your HD

Dr. DivX - The user-friendly workhorse of this operation (There's a free 15-day trial to work with)

The Guide:

Okay class...for today's lesson I will demonstrate how to fully rip a CD into 2-pass DivX 5 in less than 5 hours with little-to-no effort/technical know-how. Since I think that Mission Impossible: 1 is one of the most under-appreciated movies of all time, I decided to use that as our source DVD.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd1.png

1. Our first order of business is setting up DVD Decrypter to rip the DVD to our hard drive. By default, the program should start up in IFO mode, pictured below. From that point, click on the Stream Processing tab on the right hand side. You're going to want to unselect everything that is unneeded from our rip, more specifically- everything but the video and 2 channel audio (you can rip the 6 channel audio if you have more than 2 speakers to use them with). Even though I selected to rip the DVD with subtitles, there's really no need to do so.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd2.png

2. Next, we have to configure DVD Decrypter to rip the contents of our DVD to only 1 file. We accomplish this by going into Tools-> Settings. Click on the IFO Mode tab to configure our file splitting. In the drop down box for File Splitting, select None.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd3.png

3. After you have completed that, return back to main window for DVD Decrypter and start the rip by clicking the large button in the lower left hand side of the window. It should begin to decrypt your DVD. This can take anywhere between 30 minutes to 70 minutes, depending on how long/detailed your movie is.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd4.png

4. After it’s all done, you should see a few files sitting in your destination folder. You can ignore pretty much everything other than the massive 4-7 gig .vob file. This is what we will be using to make our rip.


http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd5.png

5. Open up Dr. DivX and select Video File. Navigate to your destination folder and select that huge .vob file we just made. Be patient, it may take a few minutes for Dr. DivX to open the file.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd6.png

6. Since we’re not going to be going with default settings, IMMEDIATELY HIT BACK so we can configure this a little bit. If you’re doing a 1CD rip, make 1 file 700 megabytes in size. If this is a 2 CD rip, make 2 files 700 megabytes in size. Pretty self-explanatory. Hit NEXT when you’re ready to proceed.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd8.png

7. Now we’re back at the encoding screen. Click on Modify Settings.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd7.png

8. I love Dr. DivX so much for making resizing and cropping so ****ing easy. It even gives you a little preview window so you can tinker with different sizes and “mark” out the credits if you want. When you’re done adjusting the settings (you really don’t NEED to, I think Dr. DivX gets it pretty good almost every time.) just click Encode on the bottom of the main window.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd9.png

9. Now we wait. Since we’re doing a 2-pass, the “Time Remaining” only pertains to the pass we are currently on. It should take about an 60-90 minutes per pass to complete.

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/dvd10.png

10. Viola! We are done! It’s really quite easy with Dr. DivX.

The Results:

I personally think that DivX5 is still a very strong codec, even though it can’t hold a candle to XViD (and the deadly .ogm file container format), but it’s good for people who need a DVD ripped in a small amount of time. Just keep in mind that XViD / Vorbis will always produce cleaner rips, but DivX can always do it faster.

Here are some Mission Impossible 1 screenshots:

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/mi1.jpg

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/mi2.jpg

http://www.gruvemusic.com/sa/mi3.jpg

edit- fixed a link

PS - turn on images you ****ors

[MT]

http://www.therealbmd.com/guides/myguide.htm

[CaShY]

dvdtodivx.net

[meglamaniac]

Finally got around to doing it, using the DVD to DivX AVI guide at http://www.nanomessiah.com/

Lets just say this might take a while...
Ripping took about 20 mins but now i'm actually encoding the video in VirtualDub using DivX 5.1 Pro on the "slowest" setting (ie. best quality/MB). It's done 10% in 2 hours. And that's pass 1 of 2, so more like 5%.
Might be done by saturday afternoon...
I just hope my PC hasn't melted by then (CPU @ 73C right now) - half the fans in there auto adjust there speed based on temperature and right now it sounds like a harrier. No sleep for me.

*sigh*